I'll start: For a dripcap/watertable, if you have to use two pieces, should you caulk them together or leave a gap as a water run off/drip point? If caulk work was done, but water is still causing damage to wood, at a point where shingles come over an awning, should it be flashed or have the shingles extend over the brace point for the awning?
Christmas lights. How the hell do you waterproof these things for outdoor use? I've seen these little outlets on 12" poles, but they don't have a case over them, or anything. Anyone know of any with a cover on them? Something like this, maybe: But not as fancy.
For the connections, I'll tape them together. The problem is I only have two outlets on the GFI, and I need to plug three things in, though I suppose I could not run the low voltage landscaping lights and just rely on the Christmas lights themselves, but I'd rather keep the landscape lights too. And since I'll need a timer, I'll probably just have to go with one of the $20 timer stick things from Walmart and keep it stored in the crawl space.
Central heat and air has decided to go out. Seems electrical. Neither heat, nor fan, nor A/C will kick on. We lost power a few days ago, and it hasn't worked since. I've flipped the breaker off and on again, but still nothing. Before I call a service repair guy in, what else should I check? I'd hate a service call and the guy finds a "power" button or something that was tripped.
Check the Condenser. Many air conditioners have their own breaker or reset switch out by the condenser. Check your owners manual for the location of this switch, and once found, turn it “off” and then back “on.” The air conditioner should reset and turn back on.
Wasn't it. Needs to be something that ties fan, heat and A/C together. Hell, could be the thermostat for all I know.
There might also be a breaker in your meter box protecting the unit in addition to the main breaker for your house.
I checked both panels. The AC unit has a double fuse box that runs to the panel. I have no way of checking the fuses, though I'm just going to get someone out here and hope it is something stupid. Bout time for an inspection anyway..
Hah, yea. Plus I think whoever installed our system ran a water outlet down an old vent pipe that they thought went to sewage, but apparently doesn't. We had some rot under the foundation, and I'm assuming that is what it is from. Be nice to find out, and if so, run it out properly. I thought I had a second thermostat from when I put in the programmable one, but I guess I tossed it. Probably going to end up being the furnace board, or whatever it is called, getting fried from a surge. Either way, gonna be some work done.
Mine went out a couple of years ago on July 4th. Surprisingly I found a repair guy to come replace it and didn't have to wait too long.
Anyone got a quick and dirty fix for a draft hitting a thermostat, causing the temperature to read lower than it should be? Heat is basically kicking on and staying on because the thermostat is always 2 degrees lower than ambient. Air is tunneling out of a bedroom, running along the wall in the hallway and hitting the thermostat. Just started happening yesterday. Hate to have to move the thermostat, but I can if it comes to it.
