You can pressure clean it if it's turning grey. I use a spray that you connect to a water hose. It lasted about 6 years? http://www.fiveminutefence.com/ I think this was it
So... maybe I'm making more out of this than I should. I want to put coach lights on the sides of my carport. One side is wood and the utility room, the other side is brick, and the house. So on the wood side, I'm going to cut in an old work octagon box, and then use EMT for the electrical run, because technically it would be exposed wiring if I just did NM. So that's fine, the conduit will protect against tools and such that might hit the wire. So that seems all good. Now the brick side. If I wanted to just do it, and say screw code, I'd just drill through thr brick, pull NM, throw up a pancake box, and mount the fixture. Instead, I'm going to cut out a section of brick, put in a 3" octagon box with mortar all around the box to hold it. But now how do I wire it? Technically that's a wet location right? So then it has to be conduit. Can I use that flexible liquid tight conduit, or does it have to be EMT or rigid? The other side of the brick is the kitchen, so I can run a straight shot of conduit through to the box, and then junction inside the wall and put a plate on that box. But I have to cut through the back of a cabinet, and would rather not. And I refuse to surface mount the conduit. So. Ideas? If I can, to code, use that flexible liquid tight (not AC, the other stuff), I think I can get it to make the turn. If I have to use EMT, I'm not so sure, because I'm coming (or going, depending) from the attic. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-install-entry-light The lady in that video just pulled straight NM. But no way that is to code, right? That's a wet location. If she was putting in an outlet, it'd have to be GFCI, with a wet location box or a bubble. And NM can't be used in wet locations, right?
Ugh. Straight shot of conduit then, with a junction box inside the house, and the connection made in the box inside.
Wet location is as a general rule ground contact or areas subject to saturation under reasonable conditions. That box location would be "Damp" per NEC and a traditional box and romex would be fine, provided they're installed in (their favorite term) a workmanlike manner. Do just what she did on the video and you'll be fine.
Cool. I know the run through of 240v for the AC breaker did just that, but I have another coach light on the back porch that was conduit. It'll be done in a workmanlike manner. If not, I'd be done already...
I wired up the one on the utility room. But still haven't done the brick side, yet. JB, does this make any difference: Since the brick side goes all the way to the ground, that makes it a wet location, and not a damp location, right? Cause NM can't be run in wet, which means I'm back to what Justin said, running rigid.
You're good, the ground contact is usually considered a flat horizontal surface and you're well above grade.
Excellent. Fingers hurt from making splices all weekend, but two more then and I'm finished. I updated all exterior outlets with weather resistant GFCIs and put extra duty weatherproof covers on 'em. Found an open ground on an interior outlet, and fixed that. One of the coach lights out front had an inch and half forward lean (it was on siding, and builder built the siding out to match the light... and previous owner updated the lights, so that the base was wider than the build out, so it tilted) to the point that leaves had gathered in the box, and the ground was cut. So I fixed that too. Some scary stuff around here.
When I bought my house I pulled down lots of paneling and wrecked everything out to the studs, found lots of interesting adventures in there. People are pretty bad about doing things in a manner so that the next guy can figure out WTF they did.
Olive Oil gets Great Stuff off of your hands better than anything other than mineral spirits. You're welcome.
Thanks. Makes much less work on my part as well. I'll just hire someone now that the weather has cooled off.
