This is a single Z, you can see that vertical rod on the left. And not one on the right. So the right side of the cross beam is held in place by the wheels. If you accidentally let those wheels get loose, the right side of the gantry will dip, and you'll have a hell of a time leveling your printer.
Me too. I’ve dusted off the 360 a couple of times over the years but it sounds like an old boat motor now and usually takes a few tries to boot up the games.
It prints pretty good, just stock. The biggest struggle is just leveling the bed. Go to link at bottom, get the M0 level file out of zip and put on your SD card. The others aren't very useful. When you go to print it, it'll stop at every corner and the middle, and wait on input (pressing the button). Take a piece of paper, maybe 2"x2" square and slide it under the nozzle and the bed, and slide it back and forth until it's pretty resistant. If you get down at eye level, you should be able to see the smallest gap between the bed and the nozzle. Do this until the print ends, and then do it all again, every time you adjust a screw. It can take a long time. But, eventually you'll get it. Once it's level, you're good to go. You can't be "too close" and also not touching the bed with the nozzle. Obviously the nozzle can drag across the bed which isn't good, and that would be too close, but it would also be touching. A better way to put it maybe is that whatever distance between the nozzle and the bed that you start a print at, the printer is going to additionally move up 0.1 mm or whatever the print setting is, so if you were dead level, it would only move 0.1mm. But that isn't possible. So you're going to be Paper Thickness + 0.1mm, and if you're not pretty well exactly paper thickness, then you'll be Paper Thickness + Some Gap + 0.1mm. And then things will start not adhering to the bed. That seems to be the biggest issue with people and the Ender 3, is just spending the time getting that bed level and close to the nozzle. https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
Let me know how well it works. Conceptually, they should work well. But the beds are spring loaded, and I'm not sure if that has any impact or not.
I bought a new printer. TronXY x5sa. Only did the 330mm bed. About same price as Ender 3, and I like it more. It's quieter.
We bought me...I mean, my son an entry 3D printer for Christmas, an Ender 3. Having never used them before, it is an absolute pleasure watching this thing work. it is utterly fascinating. And there are free files for D&D figures up on the web, and it does a pretty good job printing them out.
Ender 3 is a good machine. After a good number of hours you might have some issues with adhesion on the first layer. If so the cross arm might not be level, and a good, cheap upgrade to fix it is an anti-backlash spring to replace the one it uses.
Happy to report that I have done [uck fay] all with this thing and it sits on a desk in the corner of my room because the circuit board was bad on it
It wasn't their board and I haven't been motivated to try and reverse engineer my new parts into the old board.
Anybody got any experience with or insight about Glowforge? Expensive toy or useful tool? My intention is to do pearl inlay for mandolin headstocks/fretboards.
